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South Luangwa National Park

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Africa : Central Africa : Zambia : Eastern Province : South Luangwa National Park

South Luangwa National Park is in eastern Zambia.

Elephants crossing the Luangwa River at duskElephants crossing the Luangwa River at dusk
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Elephants crossing the Luangwa River at dusk

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south luangwa national park Travel Guide :

South Luangwa National Park

Understand

Called by some one of the greatest wildlife sanctuaries in the world, South Luangwa is one of Zambia's main draws. This 9,050-sq.km. park is centered around the Luangwa River and is home to one of Africa's largest concentrations of wildlife.

Thanks to its inaccessible location, South Luangwa manages to combine immense density of wildlife with limited visitor numbers, and it's also one of the few national parks that allow night safaris. However, visitor numbers are steadily marching upwards, and the best time to visit is right now — before it becomes the next Kruger or Serengeti.

South Luangwa National Park

History

South Luangwa National Park

Landscape

South Luangwa is dry woodland, watered by the meandering Luangwa River and its many oxbow lakes. The dominant tree is the mopane, but stately baobabs also dot the landscape here and there. In the dry season, most plants and trees seem to shrivel up and wildlife congregates around watering holes, allowing excellent viewing.

South Luangwa National Park

Flora and fauna

Crawshay's zebra, a South Luangwa specialtyCrawshay's zebra, a South Luangwa specialty
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Crawshay's zebra, a South Luangwa specialty

South Luangwa is home to a dazzling array of wildlife. You'll see hippos and crocodiles as soon as you cross the bridge over the Luangwa River, and elephants are hard to miss along the river's banks. Thornicraft's giraffe, with white legs and faces, and Crawshay's zebra, without the brownish "shadow-stripe" of common (Burchell's) zebra, are both endemic to the park and easily spotted. Herds of buffalo roam the park, along with several prides of lions. The density of leopards is among the highest in the world, although spotting these nocturnal creatures can be tricky. All sorts of antelopes abound: impala are ubiquitous, the puku — rarely seen outside Zambia — is almost as common and there are plenty of waterbucks and bushbucks too.

South Luangwa is a wet dream for birdwatchers, with over 400 species recorded. Depending on who you ask, the best times to go are November-December (when the rains start), April-May (when they end) or August-September (when the water levels are at their lowest).

See also: African flora and fauna

South Luangwa National Park

Climate

The peak travel season is May to October, when it's pleasantly cool and dry. November to December is hot and humid and January to April is the rainy (or "green") season.

South Luangwa National Park

Get in

There are two major access points for the park: Mfuwe Gate, near the village of Mfuwe and connected by bridge, and the less used Nyamaluma 50 km to the southwest, where a pontoon ferries vehicles across the river.

South Luangwa National Park

By plane

The nearest airport is in Mfuwe, which offers flights to Lusaka and Livingstone, as well as Lilongwe (Malawi). Note that flight schedules are cut down in the green season. The airport is about 30 minutes away by car from the park entrance, and most lodges offer free transfers.

South Luangwa National Park

By car

Mfuwe is about 3 hours by car from Chipata (123 km) in the dry season, but the road is not tarred and travel is more difficult, occasionally even impossible, in the wet season. From Chipata, it's 2-3 hours to Lilongwe and 8-10 hours to Lusaka.

South Luangwa National Park

Fees/Permits

As of August 2005, the basic park fee is US$20 per day. Extra fees are levied for bringing in your own vehicles.

South Luangwa National Park

Get around

South Luangwa National Park

By car

Most visitors tour South Luangwa by car, either on safari drives organized by their lodge, or by their own 4WD vehicle. If going on your own, there are plenty of trails but the signposting can be a little haphazard, so pick up a map from the gate.

South Luangwa National Park

By boat

During the dry season the water levels in the Luangwa River are too low to permit travel by boat. In the green season, however, some operators arrange canoe safaris, but trying this on your own is not recommended due to the large number of hippos (which capsize canoes) and crocodiles (which attack capsized canoes) in the river.

South Luangwa National Park

On foot

Independent travel on foot is not permitted, but you can join a walking safari (see next section).

South Luangwa National Park

See & Do

Solitary lion on the prowlSolitary lion on the prowl
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Solitary lion on the prowl

The thing to do in South Luangwa is, of course, to go on safari. All lodges organize game drives, where a trained guide takes visitors around by a safari jeep. Safaris are typically arranged at the crack of dawn (wake-up call before 6 AM), in the evening past 4 PM when temperatures have started to cool, and at night after sunset when high-powered spotlights are used to locate nocturnal animals like leopards, hyenas and civets. High-end lodges include drives in the price, but independent travelers pay US$20-25 each if you can rustle up 3-4 others to go.

Some lodges organize walking safaris, where you actually walk through the bush on foot and track animals with the help of a guide — an altogether different experience. Walking safaris can be as short as 4 hours, but multi-day treks where you stay overnight in "bushcamps" (usually far more luxurious than you'd think from the name) are more rewarding. You will not, however, save any money this way: costs are generally US$300-400 per person per day.

South Luangwa National Park

Buy, Eat & Drink

There are no shops or restaurants in the park.

South Luangwa National Park

Sleep

In the July-September peak season demand often outstrips supply, so book in as far advance as possible. During the green season, however, many lodges close down and those that are still open can offer steep discounts.

South Luangwa National Park

Lodging

Unless otherwise noted, all rates below are per person per night and include all meals, two game drives per day, park fees and airport transfers.

  • Kafunta River Lodge, tel. +260-6-246046, 1 (http://www.luangwa.com/riverlodge.htm). Wonderful small lodge with friendly service, knowledgeable guides, stunning views of the Luangwa Valley and not just a pool but a hot spring as well. The major downside is the location some 12km south of the park entrance, meaning an hour of drive time is chewed up just going to and fro. Rates US$295/180 peak/off-peak.
  • Mfuwe Lodge, tel. +260-6-245041, 2 (http://www.mfuwelodge.com). The oldest and largest operation in South Luangwa, running since the 1960s but privatized and completely rebuilt in 1998. The chalets are built in an old-school colonial style looking out onto the lagoons and watering holes, meaning great viewing from your own balcony. Even the bathtubs have views! Excellent location in the heart of the park, but a little impersonal due to the size. Peak rates US$300.
South Luangwa National Park

Camping

  • Flatdogs Camp, email info@flatdogscamp.com (mailto:info@flatdogscamp.com), 3 (http://www.flatdogscamp.com/). Well located right outside Mfuwe Gate. Camping US$5, basic chalets US$30. Airport transfers an extra US$15, game viewing US$30.
South Luangwa National Park

Backcountry

Bushcamps are scattered throughout the camp, but are generally accessible only on exclusive safari tours costing US$300-400 per night. The largest operators are Robin Pope Safaris (http://www.robinpopesafaris.net) and Norman Carr Safaris (http://www.normancarrsafaris.com).

There is also a barebones camp site at the Nyamaluma pontoon, but using it is only practical if you have your own 4WD.

South Luangwa National Park

Stay safe

Even hippos watch out for crocodiles!Even hippos watch out for crocodiles!
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Even hippos watch out for crocodiles!

Walking in the bush at night is extremely dangerous, and lodges provide escorts to take their guests even around lodge grounds. Hippos, crocodiles, lions and buffalo kill many people every year — although the victims are mostly unfortunate locals, not tourists.

South Luangwa National Park

Get out

South Luangwa National Park

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