Newfoundland and Labrador

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Newfoundland and Labrador is one of the Atlantic Provinces of Canada. Newfoundland is an island that was independent until 1949 when it joined confederation with Canada. Labrador is an adjoining mainland coastal region which abuts Quebec.

Note: Newfoundlanders pronounce Newfoundland to rhyme with 'understand,' placing emphasis on -LAND, not New or found-. It sounds something like "newfin-LAND." Mainlanders (those residing in mainland Canada) and tourists are noted for their pronunciation of Newfoundland as "new-FOUND-lind", "NEW-fin-lind" or "NEW-found-lind."

	newfoundland and labrador Travel Guide : 1 Regions 2 Cities 3 Other destinations 4 Understand 5 Get in 5.1 By plane 5.2 By car 5.3 By bus 5.4 By train 5.5 By boat 6 Get around 6.1 By car 6.2 By bus 6.3 By plane 7 See 8 Do 9 Eat 10 Drink 11 External links

Regions

• Western Newfoundland: the nearly 700 km stretch from Port aux Basques in the south to St. Anthony in the north. Includes the Port au Port Peninsula, the Bay of Islands (with regional centre, Corner Brook), Gros Morne National Park, the Long Range Mountains, and the Northern Peninsula. Vikings to Acadians, the history and culture of Western Newfoundland is varied and diverse.
• Labrador, the territory sharing a border with Quebec on the mainland of Canada. From trapping to whaling to Military bases, Labrador has rich history and breathtaking landscapes.
• Central Newfoundland: includes the Baie Verte Peninsula & Green Bay area, the numerous islands of the North Coast (including New World Island and Change Islands), Grand Falls-Windsor, and the famous international airport at Gander.
• Southern Newfoundland: includes the Southern Shore (mostly accessible only by ferry), as well as the Burin Peninsula and France's Saint Pierre and Miquelon.
• Eastern Newfoundland & the Avalon Peninsula: the New Founde Land, from John Cabot's landing grounds in the Bonavista Peninsula to Cape Spear, North America's most easterly point near historic capital St. John's.

Cities

• Corner Brook -- The pulp and paper center of Newfoundland
• Goose Bay -- The largest city in Labrador
• Mount Pearl -- The second biggest city in Newfoundland and part of the greater St. John's area
• St. John's -- The capital and largest city in Newfoundland
• Placentia -- The original French capital of Newfoundland

Other destinations

• T'Railway Provincial Park -- part of the TransCanada Trail
• Gros Morne National Park -- UNESCO World Heritage Site, north of Corner Brook
• L'Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site -- Site of an ancient Viking settlement, dating from 1000 A.D., in the Northern Peninsula
• The Eastport Peninsula
• Terra Nova National Park -- Eastern Newfoundland.
• Cape Spear -- The eastern most point in North America
• Saint Pierre and Miquelon -- Two small islands south of Newfoundland which are actually part of France.

Understand

There are many extraordinary things about Newfoundland: the rugged natural beauty of the place, the extraordinary friendliness and humour of the local people, the traditional culture, and the unique dialect.

The beauty of Newfoundland can be found on the rocky coasts of the island and the relatively new, and stunningly beautiful East Coast Trail, but this is a truly coast-to-coast kind of place. There's much to see in the Tundra of Labrador (often called "the Big Land"), the "mini-Rockies" of the West Coast's Long Range Mountains and Lewis Hills, the historic Avalon Peninsula, home to the capital of St. John's. Also don't underestimate the power of the largely uninhabited Newfoundland interior. There is a raw, untouched quality to the entire place, especially where water meets rocks. Adventure racer Mats Andersson has described it as a mix of ?Patagonia, Sweden, New Zealand and other countries from all around the world."

As for the people, everyone talks to everyone; indeed, everyone helps everyone, and everyone knows everyone (people often can tell what part of the island someone is from by their last name). The uptight paranoia found in many American cities cannot be found in Newfoundland. It has a totally different approach to life. One Newfoundlander has suggested that people 'exist' in New York, but they 'live' in Newfoundland.

Newfoundlanders are known for their distinctive manner of speech. Believe it or not, they speak a dialect (that's right, not an accent). Its roots (while still North American English) are mainly Irish, English and French, and the language has evolved and developed in semi-isolation for about 500 years. The Dictionary of Newfoundland English is about the size of a standard English dictionary. It is immediately noticeable to most visitors, or "Come-From-Aways" as they are occasionally called, that the syntax and grammar varies slightly. As for the accent, it varies from district to district in the province. As Canadian author Douglas Coupland puts it in Souvenir of Canada, Newfoundlanders "speak in a dialect that can rival Navajo for indecipherability--that is, when they really ham it up..." (74).

Two "traditions" persist with a visit to Newfoundland--kissing the cod and the "screech-in." (Both were actually enacted by Ben Mulroney in the Canadian Idol television show while he visited Newfoundland, demonstrating how widespread these activities are thought to be). These "traditions" are little more than tourist activities originally invented by locals for a laugh. The tourists found them enjoyable, and now they are becoming extremely common. Commercial tours will often include these activities, concluding them with a certificate proclaiming the participant an honorary Newfoundlander.

• the "Screech-in"-- The most famous of newcomer traditions, mainlanders and visitors to the isle must drink a shot or glass of Screech (a brand of Jamaican Rum famous to Newfoundland). Take this all in good humour, but don't be surprised if you don't like the taste; the name has good meaning.

• Kissing the Cod-- As well as being "Screeched in", occasionally visitors will be coaxed into "Kissing the Cod". The visitor must kiss a codfish, emblem of the historic fishing industry, after arrival. While this does happen occasionally, it is usually a humerous part of a guided tour or similar event. The use of an actual fish is rare, though, especially since the introduction of the cod moritorum. Kissing a real codfish is discouraged by many, not to mention possibly unhygienic, so an imitation cod, made of wood, plastic, or rubber is used.

And finally, the "Newfie" (also "Newf") stereotype: in Canada, this figure is similar to the Hillbilly stereotype or the rural Hick stereotype. As with both of those cases, it is rooted in discrimination. While some Newfoundlanders may call themselves "Newfies", it may be wise to refrain from calling the province's residents as such yourself, as many see this as a slur or putdown when it comes from a non-native. Not unlike "Canuck", originally a slur against Canadians, the word "Newfie" is acceptable to some, but err on the side of caution and use Newfoundlander instead.

Get in

By plane

Flights from major centers in Ontario, Quebec and the other Atlantic Provinces arrive at St. John's airport several times per day. As well, flights to Stephenville from mainland Canada allow easy access to Corner Brook However, once in Stephenville, you will need to rent a car, or catch the bus or taxi to reach Corner Brook, the fare is about $20(cdn). Stephenville is also the main entrance point on the West Coast. Flights to Goose Bay Labrador are also available and to Gander, all daily.

By car

The only roads that get you to Newfoundland without using a ferry are from Quebec into Labrador. If the island is your destination, you must take the ferry.

From Port aux Basques to Corner Brook, it's just over 200 km of driving, while the drive to St. John's is a trek of over 900 km. In the summer, a drive from Argentia to St. John's will take you through about 130 km of the province.

For a more adventurous route to the island portion of the province, you can travel through Quebec into Labrador as far as Happy Valley-Goose Bay. From there, there is a 42 hour ferry to Lewisporte in central Newfoundland. Be advised that the route from Labrador City to Goose-Bay is approximately 10 hours of gravel highway with the only town in between being Churchill Falls.

As the province is home to a moose population of over 100,000, do drive slowly and cautiously, especially when driving at night. Remember that hitting a moose is not like hitting a deer--a moose is a tall beast, and your car will hit its legs, knocking the brunt of its weight into the windshield and you. This is the last thing you want to have happen.

By bus

Once you've made it to the island, DRL Coachlines Ltd. offers daily scheduled passenger coach services between St. John's & Port Aux Basques on the island. DRL's head office is in Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, but they can be reached toll-free at 1-888-738-8091. If you wish to reach their office in St. John's, call 1-709-738-8088.

Another bus service from Port Aux Basques to St. John's is Newhook's Transportation. Call them at 1-709-726-4876.

By train

If Labrador is your destination, train is one option. Quebec, North Shore and Labrador Railways offer services between these areas.

Within the island itself, train is no longer an option. The "Newfie Bullet", named for its incredibly slow speed, ended its long career in 1988, with the rails all pulled up and the railbed converted into the T'Railway Provincial Park, part of the TransCanada Trail.

By boat

Marine Atlantic ferry service runs from North Sydney to Port aux Basques (on the west coast of the island) throughout the year, and to Argentia (about 90km from St. John's) during the summer. The duration of the ride depends on the weather and water conditions, so patience is of the essence. It is advisable to call Marine Atlantic ahead of time to make a reservation (call 1-800-341-7981). If you are bringing a U-haul or something other than a passenger vehicle, you will likely be considered a Commercial Vehicle. Commercial Vehicles can only make reservations by doubling the usual fare. It is cheaper to simply take your number, wait in line and hope for the best.

In general, Marine Atlantic Ferries cater to your every whim, carrying food, alcohol, gift shops, cinemas and sleeping accommodations. There will be lots for you to do.

There is also a seasonal ferry available between St. Barbe in Newfoundland's Northern Peninsula and Blanc Sablon, Quebec, right on the edge of the Labrador border (call 1-866-535-2567).

The following is a list of all other ferry services available in Newfoundland and Labrador:

• Bell Island - Portugal Cove (Bell Island 709-488-2842/Portugal Cove 709-895-3541)
• St. Brendan's - Burnside (709-895-3541/709-677-2204)
• Change Islands - Farewell
• Fogo Island - Farewell
• Goose Bay - Cartwright - Lewisporte (1-866-535-2567)
• Long Island - Pilley's Island (709-292-4300/709-673-4352)
• Little Bay Islands - Shoal Arm (709-292-4300/709-673-4352)
• Harbour Deep - Jackson's Arm (709-292-4327)
• Nain (all ports & return) - St. Anthony (1-800-563-6353)
• LaPoile - Grand Bruit - Rose Blanche (709-292-4302)
• Ramea - Grey River - Burgeo (709-292-4327/709-292-4300)
• Francois - Grey River - Burgeo (709-842-3339)
• Gaultois - McCallum - Hermitage (709-551-1446/709-846-3161)
• Recontre East - Bay L'Argent - Pool's Cove (709-895-3541)
• South East Bight - Little Paradise (709-895-3541/709-891-1050)
• Fortune, Newfoundland & Labrador - St. Pierre (France) (709-832-0429)

Get around

By car

If you have access to a car, rental or otherwise, this is often the best way to travel the province. Public transportation options are usually limited, especially away from the larger centres, and having a personal vehicle will allow you to reach the nooks and crannies that really make the Newfoundland & Labrador experience an amazing one. Keep in mind that roads in Newfoundland & Labrador are among the worst in Canada, so you will frequently need to watch out for potholes and heaved pavement.

If Labrador is your destination, you will want to ensure that you bring gas cans (filled with gas), survival kits and food, as well as any other necessary supplies in case you find yourself in a bad situation. The Trans-Labrador Highway is the most challenging stretch of road in the province, and you will need to rely on your own ingenuity in order to have a good experience. Ensure that your vehicle is in tip-top shape and keep in mind that cellphones and GPS will often be completely useless as they often do not work in big sections of Labrador.

By bus

As previously mentioned, DRL Coachlines Ltd. offers daily scheduled passenger coach services between St. John's & Port Aux Basques on the island. DRL's head office is in Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, but they can be reached toll-free at 1-888-738-8091. If you wish to reach their office in St. John's, call 1-709-738-8088.

Another bus service from Port Aux Basques to St. John's is Newhook's Transportation. Call them at 1-709-726-4876.

Thomas Bus Co. Ltd also offers charter & bus tour services to groups traveling to or within Newfoundland. More importantly, they also offer transportation to and from the Deer Lake Airport. They're located in Deer Lake and you can reach them at 1-709-635-3056.

If you want to head north from Deer Lake's airport, you can reach the Northern Peninsula via Viking Express (709-634-4710) or Shears Bus Service (709-458-2315). Both offer regular service to and from the Northern Peninsula.

By plane

If you wish to move about the province by plane, you can usually do so with a few different companies. Try Air Canada (http://www.aircanada.ca/), Provincial Airlines (http://www.provincialairlines.ca/) and CanJet (http://www.canjet.ca/).

See

• Visit Gander and its International Airport, once the re-fueling stop for nearly all international flights from Europe to North America
• Historic Signal Hill fort and walking trail (watch the sun come up over the ocean) in St. John's
• Whale-watching boat tours
• The Battery - the oldest part of St. John's

• Cape Spear (the most easterly point of North America and very windy too!)
• The East Coast Trail (stunningly beautiful rugged hiking trail - hike and camp for days along cliffs and through forests)
• Bell Island
• the downtown rowhouses and natural harbour of St. John's
• Puffins, whales, caribou, moose, eagles, otter, and other wildlife all over the province
• the many small communities along the Labrador coast
• Fishing stages, wharves, and the remnants of the province's long history of fishing
• Visit St. Lawrence and see the site of the shipwrecked USS Truxtun and USS Pollux

Do

• Hike in Gros Morne National Park
• Enjoy Terra Nova National Park
• Visit Western Brook Pond, a land locked fjord
• Hike the TransCanada Trail (http://www.tctrail.ca/) in Newfoundland & Labrador, following the old CN Rail line through the province
• Downhill ski at Marble Mountain (http://www.skimarble.com/)
• Crosscountry ski at Blow-Me-Down
• Take a ferry to visit the Southern Communities of the province not accessible by road
• Snowmobile in Stephenville, Newfoundland's main hub for this activity
• Eat a meal of Fish n' Chips at any Ches's location in the greater St. John's area.

Eat

Rural Newfoundland is known for its seafood and its working-class roots. Rural restaurants offer an over-abundance of "golden foods" (deep fried) and classically simple fare. Vegetarians will be hard pressed to find anything without meat in it, and vegans might want to pack a lunch. But if you're a fish and chips lover, you'll "fill your boots". Mainly you will see battered cod, fish-and-brewis (fish mashed up with a boiled rock-hard sailor's bread pronounced "brooze"), jig's dinner (a traditional meal similar to a roast beef dinner, but with pease pudding, salt beef and pork scruncheons), burgers and fries, and seafood chowder.

But if you're nice, and lucky, someone might invite you in to their home for a homemade moose stew, rabbit pie, seal flipper, caribou sausage, partridgeberry pie or a cuppa tea with home-baked bread and homemade bakeapple jam. All of these are very interesting and delicious. A big traditional meal is often referred to as "a scoff", and as Newfoundlanders also love to dance and party, an expression for a dance and a feed is a "scoff and scuff", which might be accompanied by accordion, guitar, fiddle, a singalong, and a kitchen party.

A lot of Newfoundlanders habitually drink tea and Carnation milk (some people drink coffee, but don't expect it). It is an excuse to have a friendly chat to invite someone in for a "cuppa tea".

In "town" i.e. St. John's (and the other city centres of Newfoundland) there are many good restaurants for the picking, and several vegetarian and vegan friendly spots.

Drink

You will be in for a "time" (a social gathering) with lots of cheer. This is a province that consumes per capita more alcohol than any other in Canada. The legal drinking age in the province is 19. You will find nearly all the alcohol you desire in a Newfoundland bar.

Newfoundland & Labrador has a wonderful set of regional beers that you cannot find outside of the province. While a number of these are now brewed by the large Macrobreweries (Labatt and Molson), some of them are not. Depending on where you are, you will be able to locate brews with names like Kyle, Killick, Rasberry Wheat Ale, Hemp Ale, India, Black Horse, Jockey Club, Dominion Ale, Quidi Vidi 1892, and Blue Star. Something you may notice while drinking beer in the province is the tendency for the breweries to advertise that their beers are union-made "right here" in Newfoundland. Beer is commonly found in convenience stores with a liquor license and from the Newfoundland Liquor Corporation (NLC). The NLC is a government-owned monopoly and, much like most of Canada, there is a better selection of local and foreign beers than there are provincial beers. Inter-province trade in beer tends to be limited to the major brands, with no attention paid to the many excellent craft breweries in other regions.

While in Newfoundland, you will also encounter Screech. Screech is a Jamaican-style dark rum. This is the historic result of the trade between Newfoundland and Jamaica. Jamaica got the salt cod, Newfoundland got the rum. In all honesty, the Rum has been tamed to conform with contemporary liquor laws, especially when compared to descriptions of its much more potent ancestor. Hard liquor is usually found only at the Newfoundland Liquor Corporation in urban areas, and in licensed convenience stores in rural areas.

External links

• Marine Atlantic Ferry, crossing the Cabot Strait for over 100 years (http://www.marineatlantic.ca/)
• A good Newfoundland & Labrador tourism website. (http://www.newfoundlandandlabrador.com/)
• Provincial Ferry Services (http://www.gov.nl.ca/ferryservices)
• DRL Group, offering coach services in Newfoundland (http://www.drlgroup.com/)
• Official government Web site (http://www.gov.nf.ca/tourism/welcome/default.htm)
• Parks Canada, the National Parks Agency of Canada (http://parkscanada.pch.gc.ca/)
• Gros Morne National Park of Canada website (http://www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/nl/grosmorne/)
• Terra Nova National Park of Canada website (http://parkscanada.pch.gc.ca/pn-np/nl/terranova/)
• Newfoundland Gas Prices (http://www.newfoundlandgasprices.com/index.aspx)
• Road to the Beaches Website (http://www.roadtothebeaches.com/)

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