Iriomote

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Iriomote (??) is the largest of the Yaeyama Islands of Okinawa, Japan.

	iriomote Travel Guide : 1 Understand 2 Get in 2.1 East coast 2.2 Northwest coast 3 Get around 3.1 By bus 3.2 On foot 4 See 4.1 Urauchi River 4.2 Other rivers 4.3 Beaches 5 Do 5.1 Watersports 5.2 Bathing 6 Buy 7 Eat & Drink 8 Sleep 8.1 Budget 8.2 Splurge 9 Get out 10 External links

Understand

While the second-largest of all Okinawa islands in size, Iriomote's population is barely over 2,000 and visitors, at over 150,000 a year, outnumber residents by almost 100:1. 90% of the island is covered in dense jungles and swampy mangroves, most of which are protected state land, and the island is unquestionably one of the few remaining great wildernesses of Japan.

Pretty much all of the island's population lives along the coast. Clockwise from the west, the major settlements are Shirahama (??), Uehara (??), Funaura (??) and ?hara (??). The southern stretch between Ohara and Shirahama is effectively untouched coastline, with no roads and only a few isolated fishing villages near the western end.

Get in

Despite its size Iriomote does not even have a landing strip, so all visitors must arrive by boat. The nearest airport is in neighboring Ishigaki.

Three ports on the island have services from Ishigaki, operated by Anei Kank? (http://www.aneikankou.co.jp/index1.htm) and Yaeyama Kank? Ferry (http://www.yaeyama.co.jp/timetable.htm). Almost all visitors use the rapid services listed below, but dedicated penny-pinchers may opt for Yaeyama's thrice-weekly slow cargo boats to Ohara (2 hours, ¥1070) and Uehara via Hatoma (3 hours, ¥1380) instead.

East coast

Ohara, on the east coast, is the busiest port on the island and accessible in all but the very worst weather. Both Anei and Yaeyama operate boats roughly hourly for a fixed ¥1540, but Anei's hovercraft are slightly faster at 35 instead of 40 minutes.

Northwest coast

Anei runs ferries to Funaura on the northwest coast, while Yaeyama's boats service nearby Uehara. Both services cost ¥2000 and take about 50 minutes.

Note that northwest coast services are subject to cancellation (?? kekk?) if there is a strong north wind, which happens particularly frequently in the winter. In this case your ¥2000 will get you to Ohara by boat and then a free bus transfer to anywhere between Ohara and Shirahama.

Get around

Public transport on Iriomote is rather limited, but most lodges on the island offer free transfers to/from the nearest port, and both Anei and Yaeyama operate free shuttle services timed to meet ferry departures.

By bus

Iriomote K?ts? runs 5 services per day in each direction from Shirahama to Funaura (30 min, ¥390), 3 of which continue across the north coast to Ohara on the east (from Funaura 50 min, ¥670). Tell the driver where you're going when getting on and pay when you get off.

On foot

A demanding 20-kilometer trail crosses the island.

See

Around a third of the island is designated as the Iriomote National Park (?????? Iriomote-kokuritsuk?en), the only national park in all of Okinawa. The park's most famous denizen is the Iriomote wildcat (????????? Iriomote yamaneko), an endangered creature found only on this island. Alas, the critter is nocturnal and very rarely seen, but the giant mangrove trees known as sakishimasuo-no-ki are a more common sight.

Urauchi River

Urauchi River (??? Urauchigawa). On the west side of the island. The longest river in Okinawa, running deep inland through dense mangroves and often likened to a little Amazon. The views can be quite spectacular, especially on a still morning.

• Cruises up the Urauchi River are probably the most popular activity on the island. ¥1500 per person, the exact schedule changes daily but departures are frequent (every 30 minutes or so) in the mornings. Cruise commentary is Japanese only, but an English-language summary leaflet is provided. The departure point is near the Urauchibashi bus stop. Tel. 09808-5-6154, 1 (http://www.urauchigawa.com/).
• At the end of the 8-km cruise you can disembark at Gunkan-iwa Rock and trek for half an hour through the jungle down a well-trod path to a viewing pavilion (??? tenb?dai) with views of the Mariyudu Waterfalls (??????? Mariyudu-no-taki).
• Another 10 minutes from here the trail descends to the upper level of the falls, and still 5 minutes onward it reaches the Kanbir? Waterfalls (??????? Kanbir?-no-taki). The cross-island trail starts from here.
• You can also canoe your way up the river. Canoe rentals from ¥800/hour, or take a guided "eco tour" with boat transfer upriver for ¥6000.
• On your way back, pop into the little museum on the second floor of the cruise pier building, featuring a selection of stuffed and mounted big bugs and crabs including the scary-looking yashigani (see Eat). Free.

Other rivers

• Nakama River (??? Nakamagawa). On the east side of the island, accessible from Ohara. Much the same as Urauchi, except that instead of waterfalls the trail at the end leads to a giant mangrove tree said to be the largest and oldest in Japan. 70-minute cruises from ¥1,260.

• For jungle rivers minus the tour groups, head for Maira (??), Shiira (??) on the east coast or Yutsun (???) on the north coast. All are suitable for canoeing.

Beaches

• Star Sand Beach (???? Hoshizuna-no-hama). West of Uehara, accessible by bus. One of two beaches in Japan — the other is on Taketomi — where, for some mysterious reason, deposits of tiny white star-shaped shells regularly wash up. These days most of it ends up in bottles in souvenir shops.

Do

Watersports

Snorkeling and scuba diving are very popular. There is lots of virgin coral particularly on the southern coast, dolphins can frequently be spotted in the summer and Ishigaki's famed mantas also make an occasional appearance here. Dive operations are clustered on the northern shore around Uehara and Funaura.

• Diving Team Unarizaki. Uehara 10-172, tel. 0980-85-6146, 2 (http://www.unarizaki.com). One of the largest dive operators on Iriomote. Two dives from ¥13,650, full gear rental ¥5,250. Free pickup from Funaura port, Visa/MC accepted, no English spoken.

Bathing

• Iriomotejima Onsen (?????). Bus stop Iriomote Onsen. Japan's southernmost onsen, with indoor/outdoor baths and steam saunas for men/women and a large common outdoor area with a large unheated shallow pool and a selection of outdoor tubs. Bathing suit required in the common area, so bring your own. Entry ¥1200, open 12 AM to 10 PM daily.

Buy

The Yamaneko wildcat may be elusive in real life, but it's difficult to avoid in souvenir shops, which plaster the poor creature on every surface imaginable.

• Court Chalet Plaza, Uehara 868 (bus Urauchiguchi), tel. 0980-85-6812. This bizarrely named and vaguely European-styled operation located near the Urauchigawa cruise pier offers a fair selection of local souvenirs, rents out canoes (¥800/hour) and has a café-restaurant just across the street.

Eat & Drink

Iriomote has a scattering of places to eat, most of which double up as izakaya watering holes in the evening. Local specialities include pineapple (summer only) and coconut crab (????, yashigani), the ferocious-looking armor-plated main battle tank of the crab world (¥3000+ per critter). Fruits and vegetables are often available at unmanned roadside stalls.

• Hook, Uehara 99-1 (near Unarizaki), tel. 0980-85-6419. Pleasant beachside café offering views out into the bay and a selection of daily set lunches with drink for ¥1000. Open noon to 10 PM daily, closed Wednesdays.

• Shinhachi Shokudo (????), Uehara (1 min. west of the harbor). Good soki soba and other wholesome meals, and packed with locals.

• Densa Shokudo (??????), Uehara (directly across from the harbor). Soba and teishoku meals, lunch only.

Sleep

There is a wide range of minshukus offering accommodation with two meals for around ¥5000, but not much else.

Budget

• Unarizaki-s? (?????), Uehara 10-172 (2 min from Sumiyoshi bus stop), tel. 0980-85-6146, 3 (http://www.unarizaki.com). Japanese-style lodge operated by Diving Team Unarizaki and populated mostly by divers. A night with two meals in a spartan but air-con equipped private tatami room is ¥5,250/6,825 with/without own bathroom; during the summer and vacation high seasons a ¥500 surcharge is applied along with a ¥4,100 "single fee" if you want your own room. Fancier villas are also available from ¥9,450 per person.

• Pineapple-Kan (???????), Uehara 10-171, tel. 0980-85-6408, 4 (http://www.pinekan.com/). This unmistakable pineapple-shaped minshuku offers a night with two meals from ¥5000 or without for ¥3000 (high season surcharge ¥1000). Free pickup, free air-con, and in the summer, free all-you-can-eat pineapple!

• Iriomote Shizen Gakk? (??????), Uehara 984 (2 min. west of the harbor), tel 0980-84-8066, 5 (http://bww.jp/spawn). Dormitory beds for ¥1800. Meals are available with advance order from the attached cafe/restaurant.

Splurge

• Painu Maya Resort, Takana 243, tel. 0980-85-5700, 6 (http://www.iriomote.com/main/stay/hotel.html). A self-proclaimed "nature hotel" associated with and located next to Iriomotejima Onsen. Rack rates from ¥15,500/person in the low season.

Get out

• Yubu Island (??? Yubujima). This tiny island is just offshore from Iriomote's east coast, accessible on carts pulled through the shallow waters by water buffalo (as featured on many a postcard). There is a tropical fruit orchard and restaurant on the island. Entry including buffalo rides (every 30 minutes) costs a steep ¥1300/650 for adults/children. You can also walk across for ¥500 when the tide is low (approx. 5 minutes through ankle-high water). The island can be visited from 9:15 AM to 16:15 PM.

External links

• Iriomote.com (http://www.iriomote.com/) (in Japanese)
• Iriomote National Park (http://www.biodic.go.jp/english/jpark/np/iriomote_e.html)

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