Mean gunbarrel highway?
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Ooaj Travel Guide, tourism, hotel reservation, residence, plane, cheap pension for you holidays in gunbarrel highway
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The Gunbarrel Highway is without a doubt one of the most famous tracks in Australia. Linking Western Australia to the so-called Red Centre, it passes through some of the remotest areas in the country. The notion that it is "as straight as a gunbarrel" is false: although there are stretches that are pretty straight, other sections are not. The name comes from Len Beadell's Gunbarrel Construction Team which opened up a big chunk of Australia's interior during the 1950s and 1960s.
The original Gunbarrel connected Carnegie Station in Western Australia to Victory Downs just north of the Northern Territory/South Australia border. This route is almost never used since some parts of it are abandoned or prohibited for tourist vehicles. The Gunbarrel as it is loosely defined nowadays runs from Wiluna to the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park and includes part of the Great Central Road, the Heather Highway and the connecting road from Wiluna, West of Carnegie Station. This is how it will be described in this article. The trip can be made in both directions, but we will travel from west to east.
By any standard, this is a long and tough haul through very remote territory. Be sure to read the outback section of Driving in Australia. The track varies from stony to sandy with corrugations, ruts, washaways and sometimes mud. Be totally self-sufficient with water, food and fuel (the longest distance between fuel outlets is 489 km, between Carnegie Station and Warburton).
Sections of the trip pass through Aboriginal Land. You need two separate permits if you follow the route described in this article. They can be obtained locally, through the internet or by mail (allow at least two weeks):
Fuel and Supplies
Contact the Wiluna or Yulara police stations to check on conditions and to register your intended route and estimated trip length (don't forget to phone them after you've arrived at the other end):
Wiluna to Carnegie Station
Although this stretch of 350 kilometers was not part of the old Gunbarrel, it is now generally considered to form an integral part of a Gunbarrel Highway trip. Wiluna is a small settlement with a hotel, a caravan park and a small supermarket. It lies 183 km east of Meekatharra and the Great Northern Highway. A sign with various distances points you in the right direction.
The Gunbarrel starts as an asphalt road but becomes a maintained gravel road after a few kilometers. It services stations in the area and deteriorates gradually the further you leave Wiluna behind you. However, there should be no problem reaching Carnegie Station after a day's drive. If you don't make it, you can camp at Harry Johnston Water, 283 kilometers from Wiluna.
The homestead at Carnegie Station can offer homestead accommodation in cabins or you can put up your tent. Visitors can use the kitchen and take a hot shower. You can buy limited supplies and fuel (the next fuel outlet is at Warburton, 489 kilometers away). If need be, minor mechanical repairs can be done.
Carnegie Station to Everard Junction
East of Carnegie the road gets rougher: it is not maintained and corrugations, stones and eroded sections are quite common on this stretch of 237 kilometers. On particularly bad stretches, you often see tracks on one or both sides of the road which are marginally better. This is also the remotest part of the Gunbarrel Highway as described here.
After 151 kilometers you arrive at the Eagle Highway crossroads, and shortly after that you have to cross the Mungilli Claypan. Normally, there shouldn't be any problem, but after heavy rain you should make a detour around the claypan (beware not to get stuck in the soft ground). Artesian water is available at the Geraldton Historical Society Bore, 205 kilometers from Carnegie. One kilometer further you enter the Gibson Desert Nature Reserve. Another 31 kilometers brings you to Everard Junction where the Gunbarrel and Gary Highways meet. A plaque with distances to various points marks the spot.
There are no established campsites along this stretch but you can camp anywhere along the track.
Everard Junction to Warburton Roadhouse
This stretch of 252 kilometers may contain some very eroded sections, but near the end the worst of the Gunbarrel is behind you. Continue east on the Gunbarrel and after 8 kilometers you see a track on the right that leads to Mount Everard. In reality this is not much more than a rocky outcrop, but if you care to walk a bit uphill you're rewarded with a panoramic view of the Gibson Desert. If you continue on this side track it will take you back to the Gunbarrel. About 33 kilometers further you leave the Gibson Desert Nature Reserve and after another 15 kilometers there is a second track on the right, this one leading to Mount Beadell. At the top there is a memorial for Len Beadell, the so-called last great explorer of Australia, who died in 1995.
91 kilometers from Everard Junction you arrive at Notabilis Bore. This is a well-known camping spot and if you're in need of water you can bring it to the surface by means of a hand pump. Len Beadells Tree, 25 kilometers from this bore is one of the many construction landmarks along this part of the Gunbarrel. The spot is marked by a plaque. Eleven kilometers further the old Gunbarrel continues straight ahead, but from here on it is abandoned. We'll follow the Heather Highway on the right.
For 38 kilometers the Heather Highway runs more or less in a southerly direction, after which you have to turn left. At this point the road surface improves dramatically and follows a straight line southeast. Another 46 kilometers brings you to the Laverton-Warburton Road, which is part of the Great Central Road. Turn left again and after another 41 kilometers you reach Warburton Roadhouse.
At the roadhouse you can pitch a tent or spend the night in simple cabins. Limited supplies are available, as are fuel and simple mechanical repairs, but whatever you pay for will be very expensive. Warburton Community, which is not far from the roadhouse is off-limits to travellers.
Warburton Roadhouse to Warakurna Roadhouse
From Warburton the road becomes more straightforward. On the 230-kilometer stretch to Warakurna you simply have to follow the maintained gravel road that lies before you. Be aware that on leaving Warburton, you'll enter the Central Australia (Warburton) Aboriginal Land, for which you need to have a permit (see the 'Prepare' section above).
The road lies more or less on the border of the Gibson Desert to the North and the Great Victoria Desert to the South. 213 kilometers from Warburton a track joins the road from the left. This is where the abandoned section of the Gunbarrel which started at the Heather Highway turnoff ends. For a short distance you'll be driving on the real thing again.
Sixteen kilometers further on you arrive at a T-junction. On the left lie the Giles Meteorological Station, which might be open for visitors and Warakurna Community, which is off-limits. Turn right and after a few hundred meters you arrive at the roadhouse, which again has some basic facilities and supplies, except for mechanical repairs.
Warakurna Roadhouse to Yulara
This last stretch is 332 kilometers long. Continue past Warakurna Roadhouse for 29 kilometers, where you'll have to turn left and leave the real Gunbarrel behind you. After another 36 kilometers you pass the southern end of the Schwerin Mural Crescent. Thirty kilometers further on you arrive at the Western Australia-Northern Territory border. From this point the Great Central Road is known as the Docker River Road. Here you enter the Petermann Aboriginal Land for which you also need a permit (see the 'Prepare' section above).
Ten kilometers from the border you pass near Kaltukatjara (Docker River) Community, which is off-limits. A possible camping spot is Lasseters Cave, 38 kilometers further, situated on the eastern bank of the Hull River. In the beginning of the 20th century, Harold Lasseter claimed to have discovered a gold reef in this area, but he couldn't remember its exact location afterwards. In 1931, on one of his searches he sheltered in this cave and died shortly after. Lasseter's gold reef was never found, and now it is one of the many legends circulating in outback Australia.
135 kilometers past Lasseters Cave you enter Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. If you want to visit Kata Tjuta (formerly known as The Olgas) at this moment, turn left 6 kilometers past the park border. To continue to Yulara, head right. After about 1350 kilometers of gravel, sand and stones, you're back to driving on asphalt. Fifteen kilometers past the intersection you pass the Kata Tjuta viewing area, and another 25 kilometers brings you to another intersection. To visit Uluru (formerly known as Ayers Rock) you have to turn right, while Yulara is 8 kilometers to the left. You can now rightly say that you've 'done the Gunbarrel'.
The tourist center of Yulara has everything you need with respect to accommodation, shopping, information, etc. Don't forget to call the Wiluna police station to let them know you've safely arrived.