Chipata

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Chipata is a small and dusty crossroads in the Eastern Province of Zambia, and is a popular refueling station for overlanders on their way east to Malawi, west to South Luangwa National Park, or north to Lundazi.

Table of contents
	chipata Travel Guide : 1 Understand 1.1 Orientation 2 Get in 3 Get around 4 See 5 Do 6 Buy 7 Eat 8 Drink 9 Sleep 10 Cope 11 Get out

Understand

Formerly Fort Jameson, Chipata was the capital of North-Eastern Rhodesia until 1911, when Northern Rhodesia — later to become Zambia — was created. Now it's the capital of Zambia's Eastern Province and a fairly busy town with about 75,000 residents and more coming in daily.

Orientation

The main axis is the Great East Road to Lusaka, which runs through town to the town's solitary traffic lights, after which it turns into the Umodzi Highway to the Malawian border. Along the western boundary of the city, there is another road, heading north to Mfuwe and Lundazi, and eventually to Chama. It's known, appropriately, as Lundazi Road.

Get in

From Lusaka, Chipata is a 6-hour bus ride on a luxury bus, costing about $10. It might be possible to find slightly cheaper transport, but it will probably take twice as long to arrive. (Note: Among the various bus companies that travel between Chipata and Lusaka, Zoom has a rather poor safety record.)

Chipata is located roughly 12 km from the border of Malawi along Lusaka Road. Taxis taken from the Malawi side can take you through Malawi customs, but you'll have to change once on the Zambian side.

Get around

Chipata is strangely sprawling for a rural community. Most people with vehicles use them. For the most part, however, walking will be manageable, although possibly tiring.

There are a few cabs in Chipata, recently painted an eye-catching blue and white. No meters, so bargain hard — expect to pay K10,000-20,000 ($2-4) for most trips around town.

See

Chipata is rather low on tourist attractions.

• Central Mosque, Mosque Rd. Probably the prettiest building in Chipata, no entry for unbelievers but just down the road from the Down Shops.

• Kanjala Hill, on the northeast corner of town (about a mile east of Shoprite). Nice views of Chipata. Take a lunch and have a nice hike; if you want to drive it, you'll pretty much need a 4WD, but there's a track leading up from JBG Road.

Do

Two major festivals are held around Chipata and are well worth a visit if you're in town at the right time.

• Ncwala (n-CHWA-la), Mutenguleni village, usually 24 February. A Ngoni festival to celebrate the first fruit of the season, where the Ngoni chief ceremonially tastes the fruit of the land, then spears a bull and drinks its blood.

• Kulamba, Undi village (75km from Chipata, near Katete), sometime in August. A Chewa thanksgiving festival that draws colorful Nyau secret society dancers not just from Zambia, but also Malawi and Mozambique.

Buy

Chipata is a good place to stock up before heading out into the bush. There is a large Shoprite supermarket, a number of petrol stations and a few places to change money.

If you are interested in taking a look around a "real Zambian town," head to the Indian shops (so-called because they are almost exclusively Indian-owned). Also known as the Down Shops, among these shops you will find thousands of Chipatans wandering around, meeting friends, or doing business. Chitenje, the colorful traditional Zambian cloth wraparounds, are a good buy here and go for $2-3 each; specialist shops selling these include Scorpio, Vitenje and Patel & Co.

Eat

Chipata has several local restaurants offering cheap traditional food.

• Chef's Pride, Parerenyatwa Rd. Serves both local and Zambianised Indian dishes from $2. Try the pepper chicken and chapattis.

• Palm Grove. Good Indian dinners for under $5.

• Simo's Pizza, 7km out on the Great East Road. The Italian chef serves up Italian pizza made in an authentic Italian pizza oven, from K14,000 ($3) for a generous pie. Serves only soft drinks, but you can bring your own alcohol. Open only Saturday nights, or by prior appointment.

Drink

Nightclub in Chipata is a little low-key.

• Wildlife Club, in the Wildlife & Environment Conservation Society building. Features a pool table and beers for K5,000 ($1). Theoretically members only but in practice anybody gets in, popular with Chipata's small expat community.

Sleep

Chipata has several affordable guest houses:

• Chipata Motel, just north of intersection with Lundazi Rd. Clean if somewhat run-down doubles from US$10. Also hosts many concerts, which can be good to visit, but not so good to try to sleep through.

• Pine View, on southeast side of town (off Umodzi Highway). A nice place offering double rooms from $10.

• Katuta Lodge, Lundazi Highway (10 km north). Camping for $5, clean singles/double with bathroom from US$15/20. Has a decent restaurant on grounds serving local and Western fare.

• Mama Rula's, Lundazi Highway (4 km north). Chalets and camping, popular with overlanders. There's a good bar where the bartender sports a bowtie and serves Mosi and Carlsberg for US$1.75 a bottle. Local and Western dishes are also served, but $10 for fish and chips is on the expensive side.

Cope

There are three petrol stations and a Barclays Bank with mostly-functional ATM on the Umodzi Highway (next to the traffic lights). If you need one — most travellers can get it at the border — you can also obtain an advance Malawi visa from the resident consular officer, ask around to find where he is lurking these days.

Get out

• Lilongwe in Malawi, 3-4 hours away
• South Luangwa National Park, arguably the best in Zambia, also 3-4 hours away via Mfuwe
• Lundazi and Chama to the north

There are currently two bus stations, one for minibuses and one mainly for coaches, though another station is under construction. You will need to ask around to find the location of the bus station you need. Be prepared to wait a while at the local bus station — no matter what time the conductor tells you that you will leave, it will be much later (minibuses will only leave when full). Kick back and have a warm beer; after all, you're in the heart of Africa.